Red Veil Belly Dance
The Evolution of Costuming and Dress
A belly dancer can dance wearing any kind of clothing in a casual setting, and may simply tie a beaded hip scarf about her. However, on stage, in a restaurant, or at a party, a dancer will wear a flashy cabaret costume. These colorful, beaded costumes are as important and necessary to the dancer as the music she chooses for her dance.
The costume in itself is like a musical instrument. A costume is an extension of the dancer's personality and her abilities. A well-made and well-fitting costume is what makes the difference between a professional performer and an amateur dancer. For example, an ill-fitting costume on the most technically correct dancer can make her look like a beginner, while some belly dancers will wear blatantly sexy costumes to redirect the audience's attention to their body and away from their poor dancing. However, some dancers do prefer to wear a plain galabya, a much more plain costume, to prove their dancing ability without relying on the costume decorations to enhance their movements.
The costume most commonly associated with belly dance is the 'bedlah' (Arabic:K ةﺓلﻝدﺩبﺏ; literally "suit") style, which typically includes a fitted top or bra, a fitted hip belt, and a full-length skirt or harem pants. The bra and belt may be richly decorated with beads, sequins, crystals, coins, beaded fringe and embroidery. The belt may be a separate piece, or sewn into a skirt.
It has been suggested that the bedlah was inspired by glamorous Hollywood costuming, or created to appeal to Western visitors. Earlier costumes were made up of a full skirt, light chemise, and tight-cropped vest with heavy embellishments and jewelry.
In addition to the two-piece bedlah costume, full-length dresses are
sometimes worn, especially when dancing more earthy baladi styles.
Dresses range from closely fitting, highly decorated gowns, which often feature heavy embellishments and mesh-covered cutouts, to simpler designs which are often based on traditional clothing.
However, Hollywood did make a significant contribution to the bellydance costume. Inspired by the European vaudeville and burlesque outfits, Hollywood designers created a fringed, beaded, sparkling bra and belt set, which was adopted first by the Egyptian dancers in 1930s, and later by the rest of the Middle Eastern dance community. Traditionally there was no special bellydance costume. In fact, native garb covered and concealed the contours of the body, with only a scarf or belt tied around the hips to highlight the movements.
Costuming in Egypt
Since the 1950s, it has been illegal in Egypt for belly dancers to perform publicly with their midriff uncovered or to display excessive skin. It is, therefore, more common to wear a separate decorated bra and skirt, or dress with strategically placed cut-outs filled in with sheer, flesh-colored fabric. A belt is rarely used, and any embellishment is embroidered directly onto the skirt, which is often tightly fitted around the hips and made of lycra fabric.
Costuming in Lebanon
As there is no prohibition on showing the stomach in Lebanon, the bedlah style is more common. The skirts tend to be sheer and/or skimpier than Egyptian outfits, showing more of the dancer's body. The veil is more widely used than in Egypt. High heels are commonly worn.
Costuming in Turkey
Turkish costumes are usually in the bedlah style. Distinctive features of many Turkish costumes include a V-shaped or triangular belt which may be shaped or contoured around the top edge, and a great deal of embellishment and beaded fringing on both the bra and the belt. Skirts are often fuller than their Egyptian counterparts and are likely to be made of chiffon or velvet rather than lycra.
In the 1980s and '90s a very revealing costume style developed with skirts designed to display both legs up to the hip, and plunging bras. Such styles still exist in some venues but many Turkish belly dancers wear more moderate costumes. Even so, many Turkish belly dance costumes reflect the playful, flirty style of Turkish belly dance.
Costuming in America
American dancers often purchase their costumes from Egypt or Turkey, but hallmarks of the classical “American” style include a headband with fringe, sheer harem pants or skirt rather than tight lycra, and the use of coins and metalwork to decorate the bra. For the folkloric and baladi dances, a full-length beledi dress or galabeyah is worn, with or without cutouts.
American Tribal Style Costuming
American Tribal Style, (also known as ATS) is an modern group-improvisional style of belly dance created by Carolea Nericcio-Bohlman. The style is based on folkloric dance styles fro the Middle East, North Africa, Spain and India (Banjara gypsies of Rajasthan). The dancers wear wide-legged pats gathered at the ankles, tops called cholis and layers of large tiered skirts. Costuming consists of a short choli often with a plunging neckline, over which a bra decorated with coins and textiles sits, a headdress or hair decorations, one or more hip scarves with yarn, tassels or fringe, and a heavy layering of oxidized silver jewelry. The jewelry commonly originates from Central Asia, from any number of nomadic tribes or empires (e.g., Kuchi, Turkoman, Rajasthan) and is often large and set with semi- precious stones or, when mass-produced, with glass. Dancers frequently "tattoo" their faces with kohl or kajal. Make-up is usually eye focused with heavy use of kajal.
